We all want to avoid the passage of time being noticed on our face and body, but how can we do it? We spoke with the Panamanian celebrity dermatologist Shino Bay Aguilera, author of the book Be Young, to learn how to stop the effects of aging and stay young. at any age.
What is it that makes us grow old?
Aging is changes in the architecture [of the face]. It makes us look older the loss of collagen, the elastic fiber of the skin, which is noticeable after the age of 30. The loss of the deep fat compartments that [hold] the muscles of the face. And bone loss, from the face bone.
In your book Be Young, you give advice for looking good and feeling great at any age. So can these changes be prevented?
The idea of the book is that you are in charge of your own architecture and you should know what is happening to you so that you do not make mistakes. The patient must be educated. At 20 we have youth by our side and sometimes we abuse our skin. At 30 we should use products that have retinol and make sure to use a sunscreen on the face.
How does retinol work?
There is nothing you can compare to how the vitamin A family, or retinol, works. If you have never used retinol in prescription my advice is not to start with that, because you are going to get irritated, you are going to look horrible and you are not going to use it. You have to start with a low dose [and gradually increase it]. Retinoic acid prevents the collagenase enzyme that breaks down collagen in the skin from working. So at night you are not breaking collagen. And it activates the RAR gene that produces collagen. You are making your collagen savings account.
What happens in the 1940s?
The patient should be watching to see what is happening with the fat on the face. You look old but not old. It is when people start saying "you look tired".
And when you turn 50?
After 50, most people will begin to lose bone in their faces. If you look in the mirror, they have the features of an old man. To look young you have to try to imitate or keep it. After the 50s you have the face you deserve. If you are a bitter person all the time it will show on your face. There are three types of person: the victim, the prosecutor and the savior. All of us, at one point in our lives, are going to assume these roles. But beware, any of these three personalities you choose is going to waste your light, your vitality.
You mentioned retinol in the 1930s, what should our beauty routine look like afterwards?
We must try to simplify everything. In the day it is to seek protection from the elements of the atmosphere. A good antioxidant, vitamin C, vitamin E and a good sunscreen, can be in your moisturizer or your makeup. At night is when the body, the soul, everything is rejuvenated. You can use something that generates collagen and helps keep you from losing collagen.
What is the role of collagen?
Collagen is like spaghetti under a microscope. A beautiful skin is a collagen mesh, without wrinkles. The sun and other factors bite down on collagen and "meatballs" start to appear. When you have more meatballs than spaghetti wrinkles appear. It is best to induce collagen in the skin with retinol.
Another important product is sunscreen, why?
If you sunned in your youth, at 40 you will pay for all that. There is nothing worse than burning your skin. Something is going to mutate here. But the body needs sun. If you like to be tanned, do it before 10 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon. There is also a pill called heliocare, it is natural, it comes from a fern and I have tested it.
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What other things can we do to stay young?
Physical exercise. It is very important because when you do something against gravity, gravity gives you the blessing of youth, health and beauty. People who exercise look younger, leaner, with better bodies and much more bone. A woman is encouraged to lift weights so that by the time she reaches menopause she will have a strong bone.
What role does food play in all this?
There are two factors that age and make the human body sick. Number one, which I find to be difficult to control, is stress. Number two, which can be controlled, is what you are putting in your mouth. Both stress and food create acid in human tissues. When you have acid accumulation in the tissues, you begin to change the physiology and anatomy of your cells, making them cancerous or bringing disease. I believe a lot in diets where you choose products that make the body more alkaline than acid, green things. The alkaline diet is very good and helps the skin a lot.
In your book, in addition to physical beauty you also talk about spiritual beauty and the importance of attitude in the process of not aging …
It is very very important because if you do not love yourself no matter how much money you spend on your plastic surgeon or dermatologist, You lack that vitality, that light that we all possess [and that] is the energy that makes all cells happy. When you have low self-esteem you are consumed and it shows on your face. It is important to love yourself or learn to love yourself. There is no person who when you leave this world can replace you. When you cease to exist, existence itself will miss you. We are all a masterpiece of God, and God only creates beautiful things.